Sunday, February 16, 2014

The One with the Pants

Hi lovely ladies and gents!

A lot is happening on and around my sewing table. I am finishing off two Duffle Coats. I am sure you can all guess which ones.
But I would also like to start planning my next project: the trousers!


It is always an interesting topic for me as I have never found a pattern that works for me. Trousers are even hard to find in stores and this is due to my body proportions. I tend to accumulate volume in the lower stomach area. It makes it very hard to find flattering pants. So far, the only thing that works is jeans. This works especially if they are pretty snug.

If you google: "body shape fit trousers", you end up with the same things over and over again: what shape are you? I have never figured out which shape I was.

Am I a hourglass? With bust and hips larger than the waist? Yes, but no, the stomach area is not proportional…
Am I a pear? With hips measurements proportionally larger than the rest? Yes, but no, the width is not due to the hips and my shoulders are quite large…
Am I an apple? With a stomach proportionally larger? Yes, but no, I do have a waist and a generous bust.

Of course, it is not necessary to be classified in one of the categories, but without classification, it is quite hard to find a recommendation... When I was smaller, I was a clear hourglass. But I just tend to store the fatty cells below the navel. And this is not fun to fit on pants patterns!

I found this article quite fun and interesting. I am more related to the third shape below.

In the past, I have tried a few basic patterns but I was never happy about the overall look. The only pattern that works for me is the Juniper from Colette, but still, this is a lesser evil. The profile view is very flattering. I love the way that the waistline stays put. The hips also look very nice. The front view is ok but you can see the trouble area. It kind of looks like I have pouch with baby kangaroos. But this pattern minimises the effect. I am not sure how I feel about the legs width. I sometimes love it because it is very comfortable and feels ladylike. I sometimes hate it because I feel like I am mounted on two pipes.

On another note, I quite like this version of the Juniper. I used an old fabric from my Grandma’s stash. And of course, I had to use pink buttons!

Now! I decided that if this pattern almost works, there must be some other ones! This is also the reason why I want to experiment! To me, the safest way to go is to try a jeans pattern because I know that it usually works for me. I had been looking for one for a while and I was never satisfied until I saw the plus size version from the February edition of Burda. It is quite simple and has a nice and subtle bootleg.

I am going to draw out the pattern a size smaller than mine to make sure it is snug enough. I guess that it will pass or fail the muslin test! I will of course let you know how it went. I am very curious.

Does anyone of you have the same issue?
Do you have a “go to” pattern to recommend?


  1. Hey Laurwyn, I can relate. I've got a generous behind and I carry a some weight in my lower abdominal section.
    That "The Four New Body Types" article was interesting.
    I found it difficult to 'classify' my body type when I wrote about it last year
    (post here

    I haven't been brave enough to make 'proper' trousers yet (I have made trousers with elasticised waists), which is silly seeing as I'm most comfortable in trousers.
    To give me a boost I've enrolled and watched the Craftsy pant fitting class, which is very helpful and comes with a the pants pattern Vogue 2948
    (class here

    I can't really recommend any patterns from experience, but I guess the main question is what kind of silhouette are you looking for?
    Personally I am drawn to wide legged styles so they don't 'hug' my 'full-bodied' thighs :)

    Good luck with your search for a great trousers pattern :)

    1. Thanks for your super nice comment! I was actually considering the jeans class on Craftsy. I just need to convince my hubby that the cost is worth it... As for the silouhette, I enjoy fitted pants at the top that hold things in place, and wider legs at the bottom. But I could also be convinced of other styles...

  2. I have just started making this very same pattern! I will be using a stretchy fabric, so that the fit will be a bit easier. I will also be raising the front waist, since that is too low at the moment and i don't want a pooch hanging over! Looking forward to seeing your result!

    1. I am going to post about the muslin soon but so far the pattern is working great for me!

  3. un bonjour de france, j'adore ton blog ce que tu couds est juste magnifique, beaucoup de goût et beaucoup de pep's ! si seulement j'osais faire de même pour moi !!! bravo j'aime venir flâner chez toi et voir tes merveilles ;-)

    1. Merci pour ton commentaire. Si il y a un conseil que je peux donner, c'est de juste oser te faire plaisir avec des patrons, des tissus et des silouhettes! Ca me fait bizarre de lire du Français! Ton blog est super chouette (je dois me bloquer un peu de temps ce week end pour le lire).

  4. Yep, it's so "herkenbaar"... I fear pants... I always look pregnant in them, except for jeans. Loved the kangaroecomment! I'm really looking forward to see the result of the "Burdapants".Love Natalie

    1. Thanks for your nice comment! I also laughed to myself when I wrote about the kangaroo pouch... But at least it's a way to not take it too seriously :)

  5. Hi Laurwyn. First off, I've got to say that really enjoy your postings. Had I had your confidence at your age, I would've been a much happier person. I have a question about fitting. It seems that you do a lot of sizing up on the patterns you use. How did you learn to do this? I see so many patterns that I like but are too small. I don't know how to alter and am afraid to ruin patterns and fabric. Do you have any suggestions? Cindy

    1. Hi Cindy, Thanks for your nice comment!
      There are man ways to upgrade. I use the simplest one to me (see the post
      It is a little bit like a good old geometry class. Now, it sometimes does not work perfectly and you still need to pinch here and there, or add something at the seam. But so far, it's been working great for me. Let me know if you have more questions :)


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