Sunday, October 13, 2013

A Liberty version of Rachel Comey

Fall is here and this is my first fall project!

Earlier this year, Mister brought back some beautiful Liberty prints from London. I have trained him well! One of the fabrics her got me is this beautiful Jack and Charlie Tana Lawn. When you see it from afar, it looks like a simple polka dot print, but it draws you in because from up close, you can see cute pears. It is a beautiful delicate cotton and the quality of the print is beautiful.

I have been waiting some time for the perfect pattern. I wanted to use these 2 meters to make a simple dress that has something special. I found happiness in the last fall collection from Vogue patterns: a really cool Rachel Comey dress: V1350Lined dress has yoke fronts extending into sleeves, close-fitting bodice with side back seams, raised waist, semi-fitted skirt, side front extends to lower side back, no side seams, mock front bands, and concealed snap closingI particularly like the neckline and the sleeves. I was also intrigued by the curved side seam on the skirt.

After my usual upgrading, I had to make a couple of adjustments. First, and almost as usual, I had to remove ease along the front neckline. Second, I had to raise the lower back seam. Surprisingly, the curved seam was quite easy to sew. You cannot really see it on the finished dress but it's quite a cool line. I really love this dress and it is my fall staple. The lining makes it warmer. It looks great with or without belts, cardigans, and a variety of stockings colors!

The princess seam on the back was quite tricky. The point had to be sewn in was the patch method. This is the first time I attempted it. The result is not too bad! You can see some of the patch fabric a the point but it's still good. If one of you has tips to get it in a smoother way, please let me know. I will try to do better next time.

I also decided to strengthen the armholes with bias inside the seam. I also used the same bias at the waistline. I wanted it rest better at my waist. I love the feel of it nicely snug. It makes the dress feel more precious.

I also love the lining. I avoided bright colors. I did not want a bright orange to peek through because I am planning on wearing bright stockings with this dress and I don't want any clash.

A few more close ups below. I always like how lined garments look like inside out!

Sunday, October 6, 2013

Mini capsule for China

August has been crazy for me! I started a new job, I started a diet, I turned 31 and I went on vacation!
After August comes September. September is one of my favourite month to sew because it’s the beginning of fall fashion. I always feel like it’s a new beginning.

But before the fall mojo hits me, I would like to share some of my last summer projects!
In July ans August, I have been completely focused on preparing a Vacation Collection for my trip to China. I had already finished a Laurel dress. I just needed a couple of light linen separates that would be cute on photos, light in a sometimes tropical weather, easy to wash, quick to dry. I decided to make one pair of trousers, and one skirt.

For the skirt, I wanted something that would flow with the wind, but also easy to wear. I’s the first time I drafted a pattern for myself. Ok, that was an easy pattern… It only had a few properties:
-          Rectangle skirt, gathered at the waist
-          Added belt
-          Front of the belt interfaced and fitted
-          Back of the belt with elastic
-          Long in the back, high in the front

When I went to the fabric store, I chose a light blue linen. It felt quite thin in the shop but I realised later that it was a little bit too thick for the gathers.
Anyway, this project only took me a couple of hours. I cut the belt pieces and interfaced the front. I cut the skirt and drew the high/low hemline. I pinned the rectangle skirt to the belt and instead of the gathers I had initially thought, I made a few pleats. I just had to hem and it was ready!

Entry of a Buddhist temple

This was such a quick job and I really enjoyed having the result within one afternoon!

When in China, this was one of my favourite things  to wear because it made me feel so girly when the wind was blowing, making it fly, but still covering me. It was awesome in Hong Kong when it was almost 40 degrees (Celsius) and even better when we visited the Summer Palace in Beijing.

Victoria peak in Hong Kong with my good friend Rémy

The second thing I wanted to have was wide linnen trousers. I had purchased the Colette Juniper. I have a long history of try out and errors with trousers patterns, they never really worked for me. I thought that the Colette ones were nice and wide. I made a quick muslin and I loved the effect ! The pattern was so flattering. I usually have issues with the area right under my waist. It's droppy and looks awful. But the Juniper is nicely skimming that area.

I went with a beautiful ocre linen. It fit beautifully ! When in China, I loved wearing it the days we had to walk a lot. It was so comfy but became quickly too big because I lost 6 kilos between the muslin try outs and China so the waistband rested lower on the hips.

I am planning on using the same pattern, downgraded, later this fall.

I leave you with a few shots from our trip !

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