Sunday, January 9, 2011

New lining for a vintage coat: getting the pattern

I come back for more!

It was SO fun and interesting to discover how this coat was made! To start, it took a "few" hours to carefully rip the stitches of the lining. I started with the hem, which was especially tricky around the back slit (I cannot wait to hand sew that bit...). After that, I did the seam between the arms and the body. And so on...

Can't you see the joy?

There was a thicker thread to secure the lining body to the wool around the arm holes


After everything was ripped out, I separated the different pieces: 2 for each arm, 1 for each front, the back that has two different halves. I just had to iron them and trace the seam lines with chalk.

Arm (top)

Arm (bottom)

Back: middle pleat, slit and a weird asymmetry...

Front: two darts and a welt pocket. There is also a pleat for ease near the arms.

I loved seeing that result! It was almost like magic! I just had to trace the pattern on paper! My Mister said that I could even re-use the pattern in the future to do the lining again... Hum, let's hope not!

You gotta love the  ninja sweater that makes me look like 50 pounds bigger! But it is sooo comfy and warm!

After doing this, I took a look at the "naked coat". And it was so interesting! The interfacing was different then what I would have expected...

The outside, with pins where the buttons are meant to go.

Front pocket and front interfacing: you can see the front dart and a fused interfacing. It felt thick and fluffy. Some parts of it were hand sewn, but less then what I would have expected.

The back slit: reinforced with fusible interfacing.

The back view of the shoulder: fusible interfacing, and two layers of padding, they were hand-sewn.

Front view

Once again, that was very interesting, but it does not mean that I would do it very often... Those first stages were fun, but after this, it gets a bit more tricky! AAaaaaaaaaargh, welt inside pockets, with lining fabric! Terror!

See you soon ;)


  1. It's so neat to see how garments like coats are structured on the inside! Maybe if you starch the lining fabric for doing the welt pocket it would behave better (of course then you'd have to rinse it out before sewing the lining in, but it would probably be worth it to me... I hate sewing lining fabric at the best of times!)

    Good luck! For some reason I am always more intimidated by refashion projects than by sewing from scratch...

  2. Wow, you are brave! This looks like major work, but I bet you are learning a lot. I'm excited to see how it turns out. I'm sure it will be perfect!

  3. Good luck with the lining. Hope you have a great week!

  4. I just took apart three wool suits of 'vintage' (um, thrift shop) origin - for the wool. It was so cool to see how stuff was put together. I could def see that the older suits were constructed better than the newer...

  5. I'm so excited to see how this turns out! I'm afraid of welt pockets, but god speed you on yours :)

  6. Looks like a lot of work! But it is interesting to see how a men's jacket is made inside! I coaxed an old suit jacket from my husband just to open it and see.. :-)
    The Ninja sweater is looking nice and comfy (I can feel relaxed just by looking at it, so it is quite right for an annoying work as ripping seams for hours), but your blouse certainly has more chic!
    By the way, I like the lining fabric your mister chose, he is certainly a man with great taste ;-)


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